A Very Virtual Neapolitan Easter
While it is a time of great uncertainty in Italy, as in most of the world, Easter is an important reminder that Spring is here. Many of you will be unable to leave your homes this year. That shouldn’t stop you from infusing a little virtual Neapolitan spirit into your Easter holiday.
What makes Easter so special in Naples is the camaraderie. I’ll never forget the first pre-Easter procession I witnessed in the old Spanish Quarter of Naples in honor of the Madonna del Arco. Lively drumbeats, clashing cymbals and a massive statue of the Madonna (Virgin Mary) wove through the neighborhood’s narrow vicoletti.
As everyone danced in circles, groups of young women lay prostrate on the cobblestone streets. Young men entered trances as the attempted great feats of strength balancing large processional banners in the air. Think Cirque du Soleil with a lot more tambourines. Neapolitans love tambourines.
Unfortunately, due to the current global pandemic, these processions will not happen in 2020. This won’t stop Neapolitans from celebrating from their balconies. Cymbals will clash. Drums will beat. And the all-important Neapolitan Easter treat, pastiera will still grace every local table. This year, in honor of the quarantined families of Italy, we share the amazing Easter traditions of Bella Napoli, updated so that you may enjoy from the comfort of your home.
Giovedì Santo (Holy Thursday): Make Olio Santo & Mussel Stew
Get into the Neapolitan spirit this Holy Thursday and make our recipe for zuppa di cozze (mussel stew). Technically speaking, Holy Week is a period of fasting. What this really means is that we don’t eat meat in Naples. Fish, however, is on the table. On Holy Thursday, Neapolitan families enjoy briny mussel stew. Don’t forget to top with hot pepper oil known as olio santo.
Venerdì Santo (Good Friday): Watch a Virtual Easter Procession
Towns across Italy stage the passion of Christ in local processions. One of the most famous is on the is the island of Procida, which locals train for the entire year. Other extraordinary processions happen in the mountain hamlet of Agerola on the tippy top of the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento.
Sabato Santo (Holy Saturday): Make Pastiera
Pastiera is the symbol of Easter in Napoli. This Easter pie is stuffed with sheep’s milk ricotta, grain, candied citrus and eggs — ingredients that represent fertility and rebirth. Traditionally, you must make Pastiera at least one day before you eat it so that it can properly rest. Try out our recipe.
Pasqua (Easter Sunday): Bless the Table
Before the Easter lunch begins in Naples, the head of family blesses the table. Typically, we recite the Lord’s Prayer. But you can bless your table however you see fit. After the blessing, the head of family sprinkles an olive branch with holy water collected from Easter mass. In small towns, priests individually visit each family to bless their homes and provide holy water. That won’t happen this year, but believe it or not many old ladies keep reserves of holy water in their purses. If you don’t have a nonna with stockpiles of holy water, why not create you own blessing tradition this year. It’s the thought that counts.
Pasquetta (Easter Monday): Have a Picnic at Home
Pasquetta is a beloved picnic day in all of Italy Italian. Families across the country venture to beaches and mountains to enjoy an outdoor meal. In Napoli, one of the favorite dishes of pasquetta is the frittata di maccheroni, a fried pasta cake. Make a frittata, set out a blanket at home and enjoy an in home pasquetta. For musical accompaniment, listen to some Neapolitan folk music.
